{"product_id":"the-coloration-of-wool-and-other-keratin-fibres-isbn-9781119962601","title":"The Coloration of Wool and Other Keratin Fibres","description":"\u003cp\u003eKeratin fibres, particularly wool fibres, constitute an important natural raw material in textiles due to their comfort and thermal proprieties. Wool coloration demands an understanding of the complex nature of the interplay between wool fibre chemistry, morphology and the coloration processes.\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003eThe Coloration of Wool and other Keratin Fibres\u003c\/i\u003e is a comprehensive treatment, written by leading international experts, of the chemistry and chemical processes involved in wool dyeing, printing, preparation and finishing.\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003eThe book covers: \u003c\/p\u003e \u003cul\u003e \u003cli\u003ethe chemical and physical structure of wool keratin fibres, detailing their complex heterogeneity and the subtle links between fibre structure and dyeability\u003c\/li\u003e \u003cli\u003ethe coloration of fabrics containing wool, including a variety of wool blends such as wool\/silk, wool\/polyester and wool\/cotton, and luxury keratin fibres such as mohair, cashmere and camel\u003c\/li\u003e \u003cli\u003ethe chemistry of the various types of dyes utilised in wool dyeing and in-depth discussions on the physical properties to optimise these processes\u003c\/li\u003e \u003cli\u003epractical application of dyes to wool in all its forms, loose stock, combed tops, yarns and piece goods, is covered in the chapter on wool dyeing machinery\u003c\/li\u003e \u003cli\u003etwo chapters, one on bleaching and whitening and one on dyeing human hair, provide a valuable extension to the topic of cosmetic chemistry\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e \u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003eThe Coloration of Wool and other Keratin Fibres\u003c\/i\u003e is essential reading for professionals world-wide working in companies involved in the dyeing and printing of wool, wool blends and other keratin fibres and also for the producers of dyes and auxiliary dyeing agents. It is a valuable resource for teachers and students of universities and technical institutes, as well as for researchers who are focusing their investigations on wool, wool blends, human hair or dyes and auxiliaries.\u003cbr\u003e \u003cbr\u003e \u003cbr\u003e \u003cb\u003ePublished in partnership with the Society of Dyers and Colourists (SDC).\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e \u003cb\u003eFind out more at \u003ca href=\"http:\/\/www.wiley.com\/go\/sdc\"\u003ewww.wiley.com\/go\/sdc\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003eList of Contributors xiii\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003eSociety of Dyers and Colourists xv\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003ePreface xvii\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003e1 The Structure of Wool 1\u003cbr\u003e \u003c\/b\u003e\u003ci\u003eJohn A. Rippon\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e1.1 Introduction 1\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e1.2 Composition of Wool 2\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e1.3 Chemical Structure of Wool 5\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e1.3.1 General Chemical Structure of Proteins 5\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e1.3.2 Amino Acid Composition of Wool 6\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e1.3.3 Arrangement of Amino Acids in Wool 8\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e1.3.4 The Structure of Wool Proteins 11\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e1.3.5 Wool Lipids 13\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e1.4 Morphological Structure of Wool 14\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e1.4.1 The Cuticle and the Fibre Surface 16\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e1.4.2 The Cortex 23\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e1.4.3 The Cell Membrane Complex 27\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e1.5 Chemical Reactivity of Wool 32\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e1.6 Damage in Wool Dyeing 32\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e1.6.1 Nonkeratinous Proteins and Damage in Dyeing 33\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e1.6.2 Influence of Dyebath pH on Fibre Damage 34\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e1.7 Conclusion 35\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003eReferences 35\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003e2 The Chemical and Physical Basis for Wool Dyeing 43\u003cbr\u003e \u003c\/b\u003e\u003ci\u003eJohn A. Rippon\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e2.1 Introduction 43\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e2.2 The Chemical Basis for Wool Dyeing 43\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e2.2.1 The Wool–Water System 44\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e2.2.2 The Amphoteric Nature of Wool and Dyeing Behaviour 44\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e2.2.3 Classical Theories of Wool Dyeing 46\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e2.2.4 Modern Theories of Wool Dyeing 49\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e2.3 Standard Affinity and Heat of Dyeing 50\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e2.4 Classification of Dyes Used for Wool 52\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e2.5 Dye Aggregation 55\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e2.6 The Physical Basis for Wool Dyeing: The Role of Fibre Structure 60\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e2.6.1 Diffusion of Dyes 60\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e2.6.2 Pathways of Dye Diffusion into Wool 61\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e2.7 Effect of Chemical Modifications on Dyeing 66\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e2.7.1 Chlorination 66\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e2.7.2 Plasma Treatment 67\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e2.7.3 Differential Dyeing 68\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e2.8 Conclusion 68\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003eReferences 69\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003e3 The Role of Auxiliaries in the Dyeing of Wool and other Keratin Fibres 75\u003cbr\u003e \u003c\/b\u003e\u003ci\u003eArthur C. Welham\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e3.1 Introduction 75\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e3.2 Surface Activity of Wool-Dyeing Auxiliaries 76\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e3.2.1 Anionic Auxiliaries 76\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e3.2.2 Cationic Auxiliaries 77\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e3.2.3 Ethoxylated Nonionic and Cationic Auxiliaries 78\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e3.2.4 Amphoteric Auxiliaries 80\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e3.2.5 Other Auxiliaries 81\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e3.3 Brightening Agents 81\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e3.4 Levelling Agents 82\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e3.4.1 Material Faults 83\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e3.4.2 Dyeing and Processing Faults 83\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e3.4.3 Testing the Action of Levelling Agents 85\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e3.4.4 Product Selection 86\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e3.4.5 Coverage of Skittery or Tippy-Dyeing Wool 86\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e3.5 Restraining and Reserving Agents in Wool Blend Dyeing 88\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e3.6 Antiprecipitants 89\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e3.7 Wool Protective Agents 89\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e3.8 Low-Temperature Dyeing 90\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e3.9 Correction of Faulty Dyeings 92\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e3.10 Aftertreatments to Improve Wet Fastness 93\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e3.11 Effluent Control in Chrome Dyeing 94\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e3.12 Antifrosting Agents 95\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e3.13 Antisetting Agents 95\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e3.14 Sequestering Agents 96\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e3.15 Conclusions 96\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003eReferences 97\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003e4 Ancillary Processes in Wool Dyeing 99\u003cbr\u003e \u003c\/b\u003e\u003ci\u003eDavid M. Lewis\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e4.1 Introduction 99\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e4.2 Wool Scouring 99\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e4.3 Wool Carbonising 100\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e4.4 Shrink-Resist Treatments 102\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e4.4.1 Top Shrink-Resist Processes 102\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e4.4.2 Garment Shrink-Resist Treatments 105\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e4.4.3 Fabric Shrink-Resist Treatments 106\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e4.4.4 Miscellaneous Developments 107\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e4.4.5 Colour-Fastness Requirements for Machine-Washable Wool 108\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e4.5 Insect-Resist Treatments 108\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e4.5.1 Insect Pests 108\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e4.5.2 Insect-Resist Agents 109\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e4.5.3 Application Methods for IR Agents 113\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e4.6 Flame-Retardant Treatments 115\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e4.7 Antisetting Agents 116\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e4.7.1 The Role of Oxidants in Preventing Setting in Dyeing 118\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e4.7.2 The Role of Electrophilic Reagents in Controlling Setting in Dyeing 119\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e4.8 Fibre Arylating Agents (FAA) 120\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003eReferences 126\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003e5 Bleaching and Whitening of Wool: Photostability of Whites 131\u003cbr\u003e \u003c\/b\u003e\u003ci\u003eKeith R. Millington\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e5.1 Introduction 131\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e5.2 Wool Colour 132\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e5.2.1 Measuring Wool Colour 132\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e5.2.2 Improving Wool Colour by Selection 134\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e5.2.3 Improving Colour in the Scour 134\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e5.2.4 Nonscourable Yellowing 135\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e5.2.5 Wool Colour Compared with Cotton and Synthetics 135\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e5.3 Wool Bleaching 138\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e5.3.1 Oxidative Bleaching 138\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e5.3.2 Reductive Bleaching 139\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e5.3.3 Double (or Full) Bleaching 140\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e5.3.4 Bleaching of Pigmented Wools 140\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e5.3.5 Bleaching in the Dyebath 140\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e5.3.6 Biobleaching of Wool Using Enzymes 142\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e5.3.7 Activated Peroxide Bleaching 143\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e5.3.8 Catalytic Peroxide Bleaching 144\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e5.3.9 Novel Bleaching Methods for Wool 144\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e5.4 Fluorescent Whitening of Wool 144\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e5.5 Photostability of Wool 145\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e5.5.1 Mechanism of Wool Photoyellowing 148\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e5.5.2 Mechanism of Photoyellowing of Fluorescent Whitened Wool 149\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e5.5.3 Methods for Improving Photostability 151\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003eReferences 153\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003e6 Wool-dyeing Machinery 157\u003cbr\u003e \u003c\/b\u003e\u003ci\u003eJamie A. Hawkes and Paul Hamilton\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e6.1 Introduction 157\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e6.2 Top Dyeing 158\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e6.2.1 Longclose (UK) Large Bump Tops 160\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e6.2.2 Obem Big Form 161\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e6.2.3 Vigoreux Printing 161\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e6.3 Loose Stock Dyeing 162\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e6.3.1 Continuous Dyeing of Loose Stock 165\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e6.4 Hank-Dyeing Yarn 166\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e6.4.1 Carpet Yarn 166\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e6.4.2 Hand-Knitting and Machine-Knitting Yarn 167\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e6.4.3 Robotic Handling 169\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e6.4.4 Space Dyeing of Yarn 169\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e6.5 Yarn Package Dyeing 171\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e6.5.1 Package Preparation 172\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e6.5.2 Machinery 175\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e6.6 Piece Dyeing 178\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e6.6.1 Jet and Overflow Dyeing 178\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e6.6.2 Beam Dyeing 179\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e6.7 Garment Dyeing 179\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e6.8 Carpet Piece Dyeing 182\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e6.9 Drying 183\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e6.9.1 Mechanical Moisture Removal 183\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e6.9.2 Thermal Moisture Removal 184\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e6.10 Dyehouse Automation 186\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e6.10.1 Dyehouse Control Systems 186\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e6.10.2 Factory Management Systems 188\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e6.10.3 Process Control 188\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e6.10.4 Effluent Control Systems 190\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e6.10.5 Colour Measurement 191\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e6.11 Laboratory Dyeing 192\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e6.11.1 Tops, Loose Stock, Hanks and Package Yarn 193\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e6.11.2 Piece Dyeing 198\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e6.11.3 Garment Dyeing 201\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e6.11.4 Laboratory Machine Control Systems 202\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003eReferences 203\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003e7 Dyeing Wool with Acid and Mordant Dyes 205\u003cbr\u003e \u003c\/b\u003e\u003ci\u003ePeter A. Duffield\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e7.1 Introduction 205\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e7.2 Acid Dyes 208\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e7.2.1 Acid Dye Subclassification 208\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e7.2.2 Optimised Dye Ranges 213\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e7.3 Natural Dyes 213\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e7.4 Mordant Dyes 214\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e7.4.1 Chrome Dyeing Processes 216\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e7.4.2 Theoretical Aspects 219\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e7.4.3 Low-Chrome Dyeing 223\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e7.5 Specific Dyeing Methods 226\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003eReferences 227\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003e8 Dyeing Wool with Metal-complex Dyes 229\u003cbr\u003e \u003c\/b\u003e\u003ci\u003eStephen M. Burkinshaw\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e8.1 Introduction 229\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e8.2 Dye Structure 230\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e8.2.1 Electronic Structure 232\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e8.2.2 Colour and Light Fastness 235\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e8.2.3 Stereochemistry and Isomerism 236\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e8.2.4 1 : 1 Metal-Complex Dyes 237\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e8.2.5 1 : 2 Metal-Complex Dyes 239\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e8.3 Dye Application 242\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e8.3.1 1 : 1 Metal-Complex Dyes 242\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e8.3.2 1 : 2 Metal-Complex Dyes 246\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e8.4 Environmental Aspects 248\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003eReferences 248\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003e9 Dyeing Wool with Reactive Dyes 251\u003cbr\u003e \u003c\/b\u003e\u003ci\u003eDavid M. Lewis\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e9.1 Introduction 251\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e9.2 Commercial Reactive Dyes for Wool 252\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e9.3 The Chemistry of Reactive Dyes 253\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e9.3.1 Nucleophilic Substitution Reactions 253\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e9.3.2 Michael Addition Reaction 253\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e9.3.3 Specific Reactive Dyes for Wool 254\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e9.4 Application Procedures 260\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e9.4.1 Auxiliary Agents 260\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e9.4.2 Dyeing Processes Used with Reactive Dyes 261\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e9.4.3 Effect of Reactive Dyes on Fibre Properties 276\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e9.5 Novel Reactive Dye Systems for Wool 281\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e9.5.1 Maleinimides 281\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e9.5.2 Isocyanate and Isothiocyanate Bisulphite Adducts 281\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e9.5.3 Carboxymethyl Carbodithioate Dyes 282\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e9.5.4 Trifunctional Reactive Dyes Prepared from Bis-(chloroethyl-sulphonylethyl)amine [P-3] Reaction with a DCT Dye 282\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e9.5.5 Crosslinking Agents to Covalently Fix Acid Dyes to Wool 283\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e9.6 Identification of the Reaction Sites in the Fibre 285\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e9.7 Conclusions 287\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003eReferences 287\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003e10 Dyeing Wool Blends 291\u003cbr\u003e \u003c\/b\u003e\u003ci\u003eDavid M. Lewis\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e10.1 Introduction 291\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e10.2 Wool\/Cotton 293\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e10.2.1 Dyeing of Cotton 293\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e10.2.2 Exhaustion Dyeing of Wool\/Cotton Blends 296\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e10.2.3 Pad Dyeing of Wool\/Cotton Blends 300\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e10.2.4 Wool Damage during Dyeing 301\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e10.3 Amination of Cellulosic Fibres 303\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e10.4 Wool\/Silk 305\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e10.4.1 Dyeing of Silk 306\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e10.4.2 Dyeing of Wool\/Silk Blends 308\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e10.5 Wool\/Nylon 310\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e10.5.1 Dyeing of Nylon 310\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e10.5.2 Dyeing of Wool\/Nylon Blends 319\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e10.6 Wool\/Polyester 323\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e10.6.1 Dyeing of Polyester 323\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e10.6.2 Dyeing of Wool\/Polyester Blends 333\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e10.7 Wool\/Acrylic 341\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e10.7.1 Dyeing of Acrylic Fibres 342\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e10.7.2 Dyeing of Wool\/Acrylic Blends 348\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e10.8 Conclusions 351\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003eReferences 352\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003e11 The Coloration of Human Hair 357\u003cbr\u003e \u003c\/b\u003e\u003ci\u003eRobert M. Christie and Olivier J.X. Morel\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e11.1 Introduction 357\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e11.2 Structure and Morphology of Human Hair 359\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e11.3 Natural Colour of Hair 360\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e11.4 Physical Chemistry of Hair Dyeing 364\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e11.5 Toxicology of Hair Dyes 365\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e11.6 Oxidative Hair Coloration 366\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e11.7 Alternative Approaches to Permanent Hair Dyeing 369\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e11.8 Nonoxidative Hair Dyeing 375\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e11.9 Conclusion 386\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003eReferences 387\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003e12 Wool Printing 393\u003cbr\u003e \u003c\/b\u003e\u003ci\u003ePeter J. Broadbent and Muriel L.A. Rigout\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e12.1 Introduction 393\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e12.2 Preparation for Printing 394\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e12.2.1 Oxidative Processes 394\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e12.2.2 Polymer Treatments 396\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e12.2.3 Plasma Treatments 397\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e12.2.4 Other Methods of Preparation for Printing 398\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e12.3 Direct Printing 399\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e12.3.1 Machinery 399\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e12.3.2 Dye Selection and Print Recipes 399\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e12.3.3 Steaming 402\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e12.3.4 Washing and Aftertreatment 404\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e12.4 Discharge Printing 405\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e12.4.1 Ground Shades 405\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e12.4.2 Discharge Agents 405\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e12.4.3 Illuminating Dyes 407\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e12.4.4 Printing and Fixation 407\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e12.5 Resist Printing 408\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e12.5.1 Chemical Resist Processes 409\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e12.5.2 Mechanical\/Chemical Resist Processes 411\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e12.5.3 Reactive-Under-Reactive Resist 412\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e12.6 Digital Printing 412\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e12.6.1 Machinery 413\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e12.6.2 Ink Formulation 413\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e12.6.3 Fabric Pretreatment 415\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e12.6.4 Fixation 417\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e12.6.5 Wash-Off 417\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e12.7 Wool Blends 418\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e12.7.1 Wool\/Polyester 419\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e12.7.2 Wool\/Cotton 419\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e12.7.3 Wool\/Acrylic 420\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e12.8 Cold Print Batch 420\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e12.9 Transfer Printing 421\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e12.9.1 Wet or ‘Migration’ Transfer Printing 421\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e12.9.2 Sublimation Transfer Printing 422\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e12.9.3 Benzoylated Wool 424\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e12.10 Novel Effects 425\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e12.10.1 Burn-Out (devorée) Printing 425\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e12.10.2 Sculptured Effects 425\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003eReferences 426\u003cbr\u003e Index 431\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e  \u003cp\u003e“If you know 'Wool Dyeing' and have appreciated it, this is a valuable and thorough replacement.  If you do not, this book will tell you everything you need to know and more about The Coloration of Wool and other Keratin Fibers.”  (\u003ci\u003eAATCC Review\u003c\/i\u003e, 2014)\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e“This groundbreaking and innovative book is highly recommended for all who have interests in the collaboration of wool and human hair.”  (\u003ci\u003eInternational Dyer\u003c\/i\u003e, 1 March 2014)\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eEditors\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eDavid M. Lewis\u003c\/b\u003e \u003ci\u003eDepartment of Colour Science, University of Leeds, UK\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eJohn A. Rippon\u003c\/b\u003e \u003ci\u003eCSIRO Materials Science and Engineering, Australia\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e  \u003cp\u003eKeratin fibres, particularly wool fibres, constitute an important natural raw material in textiles due to their comfort and thermal proprieties. Wool coloration demands an understanding of the complex nature of the interplay between wool fibre chemistry, morphology and the coloration processes.\u003c\/p\u003e \u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003eThe Coloration of Wool and other Keratin Fibres\u003c\/i\u003e is a comprehensive treatment, written by leading international experts, of the chemistry and chemical processes involved in wool dyeing, printing, preparation and finishing. It covers: \u003c\/p\u003e \u003cul\u003e \u003cli\u003ethe chemical and physical structure of wool keratin fibres, detailing their complex heterogeneity and the subtle links between fibre structure and dyeability.\u003c\/li\u003e \u003cli\u003ethe coloration of fabrics containing wool, including a variety of wool blends such as wool\/silk, wool\/polyester and wool\/cotton, and luxury keratin fibres such as mohair, cashmere and camel\u003c\/li\u003e \u003cli\u003ethe chemistry of the various types of dyes utilised in wool dyeing and in-depth discussions on the physical properties to optimise these processes\u003c\/li\u003e \u003cli\u003epractical application of dyes to wool in all its forms, loose stock, combed tops, yarns and piece goods, is covered in the chapter on wool dyeing machinery\u003c\/li\u003e \u003cli\u003etwo chapters, one on bleaching and whitening and one on dyeing human hair, provide a valuable extension to the topic of cosmetic chemistry.\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e \u003cp\u003eThis book is essential reading for professionals world-wide working in companies involved in the dyeing and printing of wool, wool blends and other keratin fibres and also for the producers of dyes and auxiliary dyeing agents. It is a valuable resource for teachers and students of universities and technical institutes, as well as for researchers who are focusing their investigations on wool, wool blends, human hair or dyes and auxiliaries.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Wiley","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":47990190407909,"sku":"NP9781119962601","price":164.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1842\/7735\/files\/9781119962601.jpg?v=1761786853","url":"https:\/\/k12savings.com\/es\/products\/the-coloration-of-wool-and-other-keratin-fibres-isbn-9781119962601","provider":"K12savings","version":"1.0","type":"link"}