{"product_id":"the-art-of-living-according-to-joe-beef-isbn-9781607740148","title":"The Art of Living According to Joe Beef","description":"\u003cb\u003eThe debut cookbook from one of the most celebrated restaurants in Canada, featuring inventive twists on French market cuisine, plus spirited anecdotes and lush photography.\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eEarning rave reviews for their unforgettable approach, Joe Beef co-owners\/chefs David McMillan and Frédéric Morin push the limits of traditional French cuisine with over 125 recipes (nearly all of them photographed) for hearty dishes infused with irreverent personality. The \u003cb\u003eStrip Loin Steak\u003c\/b\u003e comes complete with ten variations, \u003cb\u003eKale for a Hangover\u003c\/b\u003e wisely advises the cook to eat and then go to bed, and the \u003cb\u003eMarjolaine\u003c\/b\u003e includes tips for welding your own cake mold. Joe Beef’s most popular dishes are also represented, such as \u003cb\u003eSpaghetti Homard-Lobster\u003c\/b\u003e, \u003cb\u003eFoie Gras Breakfast Sandwich\u003c\/b\u003e, \u003cb\u003ePork Fish Sticks\u003c\/b\u003e, and \u003cb\u003ePojarsky de Veau\u003c\/b\u003e (a big, moist meatball served on a bone). The \u003ci\u003ecoup de grâce\u003c\/i\u003e is the Smorgasbord—Joe Beef’s version of a Scandinavian open-faced sandwich—with thirty different toppings.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFeaturing lively stories and illustrations showcasing gangsters, oysters, Canadian railroad dining car food, the backyard smoker, and more, this nostalgic yet utterly modern cookbook is a groundbreaking guide to living an outstanding culinary life. | \u003ci\u003eForeword by David Chang\u003c\/i\u003e\u003cb\u003e ix\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003ci\u003e Introduction\u003c\/i\u003e \u003cb\u003e1\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003ci\u003e Joe Beef of Montreal\u003c\/i\u003e \u003cb\u003e6\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e  \u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003e Chapter 1: Building a Tiny Restaurant in the Middle of Nowhere 11\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Foie Gras Parfait with Madeira Jelly \u003cb\u003e21\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Marrowbones Cultivateur \u003cb\u003e23\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Spaghetti Homard-Lobster \u003cb\u003e27\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Oeufs en Pot \u003cb\u003e29\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Scallops with Pulled Pork \u003cb\u003e30\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Arctic Char for Two with Gulf of St. Lawrence Snow Crab \u003cb\u003e32\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Foie Gras Breakfast Sandwich \u003cb\u003e34\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Schnitzel of Pork \u003cb\u003e36\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Pojarsky de Veau \u003cb\u003e38\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Lièvre à la Royale \u003cb\u003e40\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Lamb Paloise \u003cb\u003e43\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e  \u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003e Chapter 2: The Builders, the Brewers, the Bankers, and the Gangsters 45\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Lamb Shoulder for Two, Condi\u003ci\u003emint\u003c\/i\u003e \u003cb\u003e54\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Oeufs en Gelée \u003cb\u003e57\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Duck Steak au Poivre \u003cb\u003e61\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Pâté en Croûte \u003cb\u003e62\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Blanquette de Veau aux Chicons \u003cb\u003e65\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Filet de Cheval à Cheval \u003cb\u003e66\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Pieds-Paquets with Sauce Charcutière \u003cb\u003e68\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Brochette de Lapin aux Pruneaux \u003cb\u003e70\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Profiteroles de Chèvre et Céleri, Purée de Tomates et Persil, R.I.P. Nicolas Jongleux \u003cb\u003e72\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Veal Liver Brisket \u003cb\u003e74\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Turbot au Vermouth de Chambéry \u003cb\u003e78\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Époisses de Bourgogne à l’Echalotte\u003cb\u003e 79\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e  \u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003e Chapter 3: Trains! 81\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003ci\u003e Fred’s Top Canadian Train Itineraries \u003c\/i\u003e\u003cb\u003e86\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Le Grand Setup de Caviar \u003cb\u003e91\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Tiny Sausage Links \u003cb\u003e93\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Canard et Saucisse \u003cb\u003e94\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Dining Car Calf Liver \u003cb\u003e95\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Pork Fish Sticks \u003cb\u003e97\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Box of Pullman Loaf \u003cb\u003e98\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Peameal Bacon \u003cb\u003e100\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Chicken Jalfrezi \u003cb\u003e102\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Beer Cheese \u003cb\u003e105\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Lentils Like Baked Beans \u003cb\u003e106\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e New England Clam Chowder \u003cb\u003e107\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e  \u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003e Chapter 4: The Seaway Snack Bar 109\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Hot Oysters on the Radio \u003cb\u003e120\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Oysters #37 \u003cb\u003e123\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Mouclade \u003cb\u003e125\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Squid Stuffed with Lobster \u003cb\u003e127\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Smelt Mayonnaise \u003cb\u003e128\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Whelks with Escargot Butter \u003cb\u003e131\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Steamers \u003cb\u003e132\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e  \u003cbr\u003e\u003ci\u003e Smorgasbord Insert\u003cbr\u003e Black Pepper Crème Fraîche • Cucumber Salad • Dill Butter • Smoked Mackerel or Rainbow Trout • \u003cbr\u003eMaple Smoked Kamouraska Eel • Pickled Eggs with Celery and Horseradish • Char Tartare • \u003cbr\u003eAquavit Onions • Cured Char with Gin • Nova Scotian “Salmon” Gundy • Potato Salad with Cider \u003cbr\u003eVinegar and Shallot • Smoked West Coast Oysters • Smoked Sturgeon and Scallops\u003c\/i\u003e\u003cbr\u003e  \u003cbr\u003e Razor Clams Video Lottery Terminal, aka Clams Casino \u003cb\u003e133\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Cornflake Eel Nuggets \u003cb\u003e134\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Baked Common Crab \u003cb\u003e137\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Mackerel Benedict \u003cb\u003e138\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e  \u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003e Chapter 5: The Smoker 141\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003ci\u003e Building Your Own Smoker\u003c\/i\u003e \u003cb\u003e146\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e The Hot Délicieux Sandwich \u003cb\u003e151\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Smoked Baby Back Ribs \u003cb\u003e153\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Good Fries \u003cb\u003e154\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Liverpool House Rabbit Sausage \u003cb\u003e156\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Porchetta alla Joe Beef \u003cb\u003e158\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Preserved Stone Fruits \u003cb\u003e161\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Smoked Cheddar with Doughnuts \u003cb\u003e163\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e  \u003cbr\u003e\u003ci\u003e Tall Tales, Taste, and a Few Theories\u003c\/i\u003e\u003cb\u003e 166\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003ci\u003e Éclair Velveeta\u003c\/i\u003e \u003cb\u003e170 • \u003c\/b\u003e\u003ci\u003eRicotta Gnocchi with Rich and Tasty Red Sauce\u003c\/i\u003e \u003cb\u003e171\u003c\/b\u003e \u003cb\u003e•\u003c\/b\u003e \u003ci\u003eJoe Beef Double \u003cbr\u003eDown\u003c\/i\u003e \u003cb\u003e173 •\u003c\/b\u003e \u003ci\u003eChicken Skin Jus \u003c\/i\u003e\u003cb\u003e174 •\u003c\/b\u003e \u003ci\u003eChicken Skin Tacos\u003c\/i\u003e \u003cb\u003e175 •\u003c\/b\u003e \u003ci\u003ePurée de Fines Herbes\u003c\/i\u003e \u003cb\u003e176 •\u003c\/b\u003e \u003cbr\u003e\u003ci\u003eMustard \u003c\/i\u003e\u003cb\u003e176 •\u003c\/b\u003e \u003ci\u003eBBQ Sauce\u003c\/i\u003e \u003cb\u003e176 •\u003c\/b\u003e \u003ci\u003eAn Easy Hollandaise\u003c\/i\u003e \u003cb\u003e177 •\u003c\/b\u003e \u003ci\u003eSour Crudités\u003c\/i\u003e \u003cb\u003e177 •\u003c\/b\u003e \u003ci\u003eTruffled Eggs \u003cbr\u003ewith Everything Biscuits and Watercress\u003c\/i\u003e \u003cb\u003e178 • \u003c\/b\u003e\u003ci\u003ePurée de Pommes de Terre\u003c\/i\u003e \u003cb\u003e180 •\u003c\/b\u003e \u003ci\u003ePolenta\u003c\/i\u003e \u003cb\u003e181\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e  \u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003e Chapter 6: Building a Garden in a Crack Den 183\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Parc Vinet Salad \u003cb\u003e190\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Pickled Rhubarb \u003cb\u003e191\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Salade d’Endive \u003cb\u003e191\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Bagna Càuda and Aioli \u003cb\u003e192\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Jerusalem Artichokes with Ketchup \u003cb\u003e195\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Apple Vinny \u003cb\u003e196\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Cider Turnips\u003cb\u003e 196\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Carrots with Honey\u003cb\u003e 198\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Baked Mushrooms with New (or Old!) Garlic \u003cb\u003e201\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Herbes Salées \u003cb\u003e201\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Kale for a Hangover \u003cb\u003e202\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Cauliflower Gratin \u003cb\u003e203\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Spring Beets \u003cb\u003e204\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Petits Farcis \u003cb\u003e206\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e  \u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003e Chapter 7: A Word on Booze 209\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e The Vijay Singh \u003cb\u003e226\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Roman Coke \u003cb\u003e226\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Sausage Martini \u003cb\u003e226\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e The Master Cleanse \u003cb\u003e229\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Gin ’n’ Jews \u003cb\u003e229\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Bock Tomate \u003cb\u003e229\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Robert Roy \u003cb\u003e230\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e The Raw Beef \u003cb\u003e230\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Joe Beef César \u003cb\u003e230\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Burdock Root Wine \u003cb\u003e232\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Cold Mulled Wine \u003cb\u003e233\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Making Your Own Absinthe \u003cb\u003e234\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e  \u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003e Chapter 8: Putting the “Beef” in Joe Beef 237\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Strip Loin Steak \u003cb\u003e240\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Côte de Boeuf \u003cb\u003e243\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Zesty Italian Tartare \u003cb\u003e245\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Daube de Joues de Boeuf Chaude (Hot) \u003cb\u003e246\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Deviled Kidney and Hanger on Toast \u003cb\u003e247\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Filet de Boeuf: The Postmodern Offal! \u003cb\u003e248\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Beef Shank Stock \u003cb\u003e249\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Montreal Steak Spice \u003cb\u003e250\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Joe Beef Sauce Vin Rouge \u003cb\u003e250\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Onion Soup Sauce\u003cb\u003e 251\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Gentleman Steak Sauce \u003cb\u003e251\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e  \u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003e Chapter 9: The Dessert Chariot 253\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Marjolaine \u003cb\u003e255\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e O + G’s Cardamom Banana Bread \u003cb\u003e258\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Ice Cream Base \u003cb\u003e260\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Financiers \u003cb\u003e262\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Panna Cotta\u003cb\u003e 264\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Éclairs \u003cb\u003e266\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Merveilleux \u003cb\u003e270\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e Chaud Froid de Pamplemousse au Romarin \u003cb\u003e272\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e  \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003ci\u003e Montreal in Two Days\u003c\/i\u003e \u003cb\u003e278\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003ci\u003e Acknowledgments\u003c\/i\u003e \u003cb\u003e282\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003ci\u003e About the Authors \u0026amp; Photographer\u003c\/i\u003e \u003cb\u003e285\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003ci\u003e Index\u003c\/i\u003e \u003cb\u003e286\u003c\/b\u003e | \u003cb\u003eFinalist, IACP Awards 2012, Chefs \u0026amp; Restaurants Category\u003cbr\u003eWinner of Food52’s Piglet Tournament of Cookbooks, 2012\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e“As I leafed through the pages I came to be charmed by their story and the unconventional way the book is laid out. There is a sense of history to the book and their deep love of Montreal is evident throughout. There is richness in detail and usually a lovely idiosyncratic story for each recipe that makes the book as much of an engaging read as a straightforward cookbook.” \u003cbr\u003e—Judge Alice Waters, Food52’s Piglet Tournament of Cookbooks, 2012\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e“One of the best cookbooks of the year. . . the stories by Frédéric Morin and David McMillan are worth the price.”\u003cbr\u003e—Edward Ash-Milby, Buyer at Barnes \u0026amp; Noble \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e“This bizarre and spectacular book isn't like the other on my list—but then again, it's not much like any other book I know of, cooking-related or otherwise. . . a kind of artist's statement for an idiosyncratic and unlikely restaurant.” \u003cbr\u003e—Mother Jones, Favorite Cookbooks of 2011, 12\/3\/11\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e“Proof of Morin's and McMillan's creative culinary genius.” \u003cbr\u003e—USA Today, 11\/22\/11 \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e“Joe Beef is a Montreal restaurant worthy of a special trip north, as David Chang attests in his foreword to this “cookbook of sorts.” The free-form tome embodies the delicious chaos of the place, and the eccentric interests and oversize appetites of the men behind it—chefs and co-owners Frédéric Morin and David McMillan. There’s history here, including the tale of Joe Beef himself, the 19th-century Irish immigrant, Canadian tavern owner and “friend of the working man” for whom the restaurant is named. In addition to recipes, there are chapters on the history of Montreal eating (spotlighting the \u003ci\u003ecasse-croute\u003c\/i\u003e tradition of ramshackle snack shacks) and on trains—old-school rail travel being one of Morin’s enduring obsessions. \u003cb\u003eCook this:\u003c\/b\u003e Spaghetti \u003ci\u003ehomard\u003c\/i\u003e-lobster in bacon-brandy cream; stuffed dining-car calf liver in Parmesan-mustard crust; Joe Beef foie gras and cheddar cheese “Double Down.”\u003cbr\u003e—Time Out New York, The Season's Best Cookbooks, 11\/15\/11\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e“I believe everyone should eat at Joe Beef at least once. And I think everyone should buy this cookbook.”\u003cbr\u003e—Food Republic, 11\/14\/11\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e“Inventive, meaty, badass cooking. And with these chefs, you get the sense that food and only food is what matters.”\u003cbr\u003e—BonAppetit.com, BA Daily blog, 10\/18\/11 \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e“Beautiful, hip, both feminine and masculine at the same time. . . . The book conveys an entire atmosphere, a way of relating to food, yes, but also time, and love, and communication. The recipes are sexy, but in the way that Montreal is sexy. If you have been to Montreal, I'm guessing you know what I mean.” \u003cbr\u003e—Eating from the Ground Up, 10\/11\/11\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e“If  one judges a cookbook by its idiosyncrasies, this fall's best comes from  Canada. \u003ci\u003eThe  Art of Living According to Joe Beef\u003c\/i\u003e,  by Frédéric Morin and David McMillan, will teach you how to cook a horse steak,  make absinthe, tour Canada by train and cure a hangover (kale with bacon and  fried egg). . . . But what makes this cookbook so great—and Momofuku Ko chef  David Chang's \"favorite restaurant in the world,\" according to his foreword—is  the confidence, humor and lack of pretense that allows Morin and McMillan to  serve a mound of caviar next to a martini garnished with a Vienna sausage. Oh,  those Canadians.” \u003cbr\u003e—Departures, 9\/15\/11\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e“This  book, from the folks behind the Montreal restaurant David Chang calls his  \"favorite restaurant in the world,\" covers a fantastic range of topics. Sure,  there are recipes, but there is also a history of the restaurants of Montreal, a  paean to the trains of Canada, \"Le Grand Setup de Caviar,\" a thirty ingredient  smorgasbord, a martini recipe that calls for a Vienna sausage garnish, and plans  for building a smoker yourself.” \u003cbr\u003e—Eater National, 9\/12\/11\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e“From the acclaimed Montreal restaurant come  personality-packed tales of food and drink, like instructions for building a  smoker and distilling absinthe.”\u003cbr\u003e—DETAILS, The Year's 10 Best Cookbooks, September 2011 Issue\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e“Touching on many of  this fall's themes—and simultaneously defying categorization—is \u003ci\u003eThe Art of  Living According to Joe Beef: A Cookbook of Sorts\u003c\/i\u003e by David McMillan, Frédéric  Morin, and Meredith Erickson. While it is tied to a restaurant (Montreal bistro Joe Beef),  it makes nods to regular folks, too, including, for instance, instructions for  building a backyard smoker. But with recipes for Swedish sandwiches,  recollections of favorite train trips, and a love letter to French burgundy,  this is one cookbook that—happily, for us—eschews all the trends.”\u003cbr\u003e—Publishers Weekly, Top 10 Fall Cookbooks, 6\/27\/11\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e“A savvy page-turner  full of meats, oysters, attitude and irreverence.”\u003cbr\u003e—Publishers Weekly, 6\/20\/11\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e“Fred, Dave, and Meredith are a significant part of what makes Montreal dangerous—and delicious—to anyone who loves food. The words \u003ci\u003eJoe Beef\u003c\/i\u003e are synonymous with good food and good times.”\u003cbr\u003e —ANTHONY BOURDAIN\u003cbr\u003e  \u003cbr\u003e “This is the most amazing cookbook of the last ten years. As a longtime fan of the restaurant and its staff, I can tell you that Joe Beef is more than just an eatery. It embodies a way of looking at food and life, a zeitgeist, that I thought was impossible to capture in print. I was wrong. If you want to cook in a gutsy, honest, meat-centric, modernist aesthetic—then look no further.” \u003cbr\u003e —ANDREW ZIMMERN, award-winning chef, author, and host of \u003ci\u003eBizarre Foods with Andrew Zimmern \u003c\/i\u003e\u003cbr\u003e  \u003cbr\u003e “Eating at Joe Beef is the most heartwarming, delicious time you will have north of the border. Fred and David are truly talented artisans and gastronomes dedicated to flavor, technique, and downright old-world hospitality. Read this book; it’ll make your mouth water.” \u003cbr\u003e —FRANK CASTRONOVO and FRANK FALCINELLI, chefs\/owners, Frankies Spuntino \u003cbr\u003e   \u003cbr\u003e “This cookbook is crazy delicious, just like the restaurant—full of fun, flavor, philosophy, and food.” \u003cbr\u003e —BONNIE STERN, founder, Bonnie Stern  School of Cooking \u003cbr\u003e  \u003cbr\u003e “Fred and Dave \u003ci\u003esont des vrais\u003c\/i\u003e (are the real thing). They were hunting, fishing, foraging, butchering whole animals, and growing their own vegetables long before it was cool. I could go on about how these boys cook (like masters), but you’ll discover that in these pages.” \u003cbr\u003e —RIAD NASR, executive chef, Minetta Tavern \u003cbr\u003e  \u003cbr\u003e “\u003ci\u003eThe Art of Living According to Joe Beef\u003c\/i\u003e captures Fred and Dave’s complete vision: their unique style of cooking and a warm and wacky atmosphere that always seems to be ahead of the curve. This is everything we love about Joe Beef, without having to fly to Montreal.” \u003cbr\u003e —VINNY DOTOLO and JON SHOOK, Animal and Son of a Gun restaurants\u003cbr\u003e \u003cb\u003e\u003ci\u003e \u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/b\u003e “Filled with historic facts, quirky cooking techniques, and food that holds nothing back, this book is overflowing with ingenuity. It reflects, indeed, the art of living according to Joe Beef.”\u003cbr\u003e —CHUCK HUGHES, chef\/owner, Garde Manger | \u003cb\u003eFrédéric Morin\u003c\/b\u003e and \u003cb\u003eDavid McMillan\u003c\/b\u003e are co-owners\/chefs of Joe Beef, Liverpool House, and McKiernan Luncheonette. Morin is a graduate of L’Ecole Hoteliere des Laurentides and a veteran of Montreal’s dynamic Jean-Talon Market, Restaurant Toque, and Globe. McMillan has apprenticed at The Savoy in London, worked as a chef at The Sooke Harbour House in Victoria, B.C., and cooked at La Cremaillere and Thibert in Burgundy, France. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eMeredith Erickson\u003c\/b\u003e is a freelance writer (and former Joe Beef waitress) whose work has appeared in \u003ci\u003eThe New York Times\u003c\/i\u003e, \u003ci\u003eMaisonneuve\u003c\/i\u003e, and \u003ci\u003eElle.\u003c\/i\u003e | \u003cb\u003eChapter 1: Building a Tiny Restaurant in the Middle of Nowhere\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e \u003cbr\u003eLittle Burgundy was a refuge. To escape our prior workplace, Fred and I would go for drives around Montreal, stopping at hardware stores, food markets, Chinatown, old corner restaurants. Sometimes we would browse junk shops or raid the downtown Salvation Army. Maybe we were already starting to build a restaurant in our minds, or maybe we just needed to get away from the supper-club scene on Boulevard Saint Laurent, where we worked. Either way, we were always on the lookout for old plates, oyster forks, live king crabs, shitty chairs, medicine cabinets, or the ultimate baloney sandwich. All roads led to Little Burgundy.\u003cbr\u003e \u003cbr\u003eLittle Burgundy is an area in southwest Montreal bordering the Lachine Canal. In the mid-1700s, French colonists named it La Petite-Bourgogne because of its resemblance to its namesake in France. It sits on a plateau, south of Mount Royal and just north of the Saint Lawrence River. Home to the Canadian National Railway yards and the Canadian Steel plant, Little Burgundy was, and remains, a working-class neighborhood. For the past ten years, it has been featured in every local magazine’s “next up-and-coming neighborhood” article, but for reasons both obvious and obscure, it has been slow to reach its supposed potential. \u003cbr\u003e \u003cbr\u003eNotre Dame is Little Burgundy’s main north-to-south thoroughfare, a street full of inimitable characters, historical edifices, and appealing old boutiques, among them the amazing Grand Central antiques, the eclectic and now sadly defunct Arcadia, the Irish lady junk shop, and the All Things Vintage store. Nearby is antique purveyor Madame Cash, who earned her nickname in the 1960s from cashing government checks for residents in the surrounding row houses. Across the street stands the majestic Corona Theatre. Ella and Oliver Jones played there; so did Oscar Peterson, who was born in Little Burgundy. Around the corner is the ever-abiding Atwater Market. This neighborhood has everything going for it. \u003cbr\u003e \u003cbr\u003eAmong all this stood Café Miguel, a diamond in the (very) rough located at 2491 Rue Notre Dame West owned by a wildly passive-aggressive troll of a man. He made six killer sandwiches and espresso as strong as it was good. And while his ambition to open a small restaurant was good, he soon ran into trouble—trolls, alas, don’t make good restaurant owners. His trouble was our opportunity, and Allison, Fred, and I got to thinking. We knew we could cook, we knew what the restaurant should look like, and we knew intuitively that we could get people to come to Little Burgundy. But it would take work.\u003cbr\u003e \u003cbr\u003eFor one thing, the café was a bit of a dump, like a dirty pig that wears a dress, too many accessories, and perfume. It had a solid, yet filthy shell and was furnished with IKEA tables, school chairs, and a blackboard with sandwich listings full of spelling mistakes. There was a six-burner stove, a deep fryer, a ventilation hood, an espresso machine, and a working chimney. We would essentially be acquiring the bare bones of a restaurant, which might make it workable, since we had very little money to start.\u003cbr\u003e \u003cbr\u003eThe backyard was full of graffiti, cigarette butts, beer bottles, tiny plastic bags, and what Fred believed was industrial waste. The clientele consisted of local furniture refinishers and antique dealers—basically guys with yellow fingers who stunk of lacquer thinner. Allison, Fred, and I held meetings in my truck in the backyard, during which we brainstormed on what our restaurant might look like, what food we would serve, and who we would harass—or terrorize—for favors to get it off the ground. We had anxiety about putting it all together, and for good reason: we don’t have the organizational skills to do anything. Ask anyone and they’ll tell you that we essentially have the attention spans of ferrets on speed. At least Fred and I do. Allison is the voice of reason.\u003cbr\u003e \u003cbr\u003eSo we met with three friends who also happen to be financial guys, Ronnie Steinberg, Jeff Baikowitz, and David Lisbona, to see if our idea could become a financial reality. We don’t remember much of the meeting except that it was boring, it was held in a boardroom, and after five minutes I was wearing a baseball helmet I picked off a nearby shelf and Fred was chasing me around with no shirt on. The obvious conclusion is that Ronnie, Jeff, and David convinced us it could work (if we did it on the cheap), and they agreed to partner in for 10 percent. Jeff tells us now that when we left the room, he told Ronnie and David to give whatever amount they would feel comfortable never seeing again.\u003cbr\u003e \u003cbr\u003eWe are still partners with these three, and if it weren’t for them, none of this would be possible. If you walk into David Lisbona’s office today, you’ll see seventy-five laminated newspaper clippings about Joe Beef alongside one picture of his kids. Their faith and pride in us are astounding. \u003cbr\u003e \u003cbr\u003e \u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003e\u003ci\u003eBuilding Joe Beef \u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e \u003cbr\u003eIt took two months to build. We scrounged quickly to make it work. The restaurant came together with love, about twenty packs of wainscoting, and unlimited generosity and interest from friends. Mathieu Gaudet, a Montreal sculptor, friend, and Saint Henri local, built, among other things, our tables. On first glance, they look like they are ebony and mahogany, but they are actually MDF (medium-density fiberboard) combined with that really bad Masonite pressboard and many shiny coats of oil finish. He also built the bar from an old farmhouse floor that probably had fifteen coats of lead paint on it. (Don’t worry, it’s sealed; you can’t go crazy from eating at the Joe Beef bar.) \u003cbr\u003e \u003cbr\u003eThe beautiful old tavern chairs we found by chance. We spotted them when we were driving around one day and pulled over and asked the guy what he wanted for them. He said twenty bucks—not per chair, but for the lot. \u003cbr\u003e \u003cbr\u003eOur friend Peter Hoffer did a beautiful installation of paintings: about twenty small abstracts and landscapes on one wall. We have always liked Peter’s aesthetic, whether it is of Quebec trees or girls without shirts. His art fits our rustic environment and feels like it has always been there. \u003cbr\u003e \u003cbr\u003eThe eccentric and kooky Joe Battat, another one of our friends and favorite customers, showed up one day in the dining room with a giant bison head. It looks real and is about half the size of a Honda Civic. We zapped it onto the wall of the bathroom, and it has been scaring young kids ever since. \u003cbr\u003e \u003cbr\u003eA couple of years back, one of our customers, Howie Levine, gave Fred a fart machine with a remote control. Fred immediately hid it in an ear of the bison, so whenever someone walked into the bathroom and closed the door, Fred would go crazy on the remote and wait for the customer to emerge in a daze of confused humiliation. \u003cbr\u003e \u003cbr\u003eThe bathroom also boasts old photos taken at Bob Dylan and Neil Young concerts by Joe Battat and the door is covered with old Canadian license plates, fishing permits, and Quebec signage. Serendipitously, all the crazy elements seem to come together.\u003cbr\u003e \u003cbr\u003ePeople still show up with old nostalgia-laden items that somehow fit the spirit of Joe Beef—things they’ve found at yard sales, in their grandma’s attic, at the back of the garage. We have a barracuda caught by a Quebec politico, Viking candelabras, bear heads, a grand notice of the beatification of the now good brother Saint Andre, whale bones, trophies (Best Eater: Kevin), pictures of Uncle Jack fishing for salmon in British Columbia, and glasses shaped like naked women. \u003cbr\u003e \u003cbr\u003eIn other words, ambience is a big part of Joe Beef. The lighting, the music, and what’s on the walls matter a great deal to us. Wine and food are not the only story. A true restaurateur has to be a jack of many trades. You see it all the time in restaurants: the food is good and the wine list is awesome, but the chairs suck, the art on the wall is revolting, and a Café Del Mar CD is playing continuously on the sound system. You can be a good cook or even a great chef, but it doesn’t make you a restaurateur. You have to have other interests, and you have to actually read.\u003cbr\u003e \u003cbr\u003eThankfully, Fred, Allison, and I geek out over the same classic stuff: a perfect Adirondack chair, a red vinyl banquette with brass nails, a pretty oyster-bar counter, old enameled cast-iron sinks, industrial lamps, a banged-up Rancilio coffee machine. We like wood, old paint, and a simple touch of cottage. This is why we love Maine, the Gaspé, and Kamouraska. I had so many bad experiences with Montreal’s “hottest” designers, who simply couldn’t design a proper service station, that I ended up buying an old medicine cabinet for Joe Beef. Its shelves, drawers, and glass bottles that once held swabs now hold knives. It works and it looks like it is where it should be. As Joe Beef came together, that’s how it felt in general: like it had always been there.\u003cbr\u003e \u003cbr\u003eThe restaurant group we worked with prior to Joe Beef never understood our cooking, but the customers did. We are thankful for the experience; it just wasn’t for us. We wanted our next project to be different from anything we had done before. We wanted to open a small, simple bistro, not unlike what Sam Hayward was doing with beautiful country food at Fore Street in Portland, Maine. \u003cbr\u003e \u003cbr\u003eWe imagined we would walk to the market and buy our produce every day. I was going to cook the meats, Fred was going to do the appetizers and vegetables, and then we were going to do the dishes . . . together. Allison would run the dining room, and John Bil would tend bar and shuck the occasional oyster. We would be open for lunch. Seventy bucks would be our top-end wine. Fred would put one lobster item on the menu, but more for him than for anyone else. We figured we might move one or two lobster spaghettis per day but not much more. We just wanted to sell a few oysters, a bit of fish, and a bit of steak.\u003cbr\u003e \u003cbr\u003eOn opening day, the restaurant was packed. It went well. The only crazy thing was that Fred and I shelled fava beans in the backyard for three hours, and we believed that it was going to be that way every day. On the second day of business, we realized we needed to get a proper dishwasher. We also realized at 4:00 p.m. that we had been there since 9:00 a.m. and we wanted to go home. One lunchtime highlight was watching a country gentleman named Mr. Barber eat Dungeness and drink Meursault while wearing classic hunting apparel. Hence, the Grand Opening and prompt Grand Closing of lunch service at Joe Beef. \u003cbr\u003e \u003cbr\u003eWhen we first opened, we thought we would be catering primarily to the antique dealers and other locals who lived on the Lachine Canal. But people actually followed us from our previous workplace, and we were getting customers who wanted to pay for two-pound lobsters, small-farm beef, and small-grower Champagnes and premier cru Burgundies. Fred was thrilled to come up with these dishes, and I was more than willing to work with private wine agents who wouldn’t have dealt with us on Saint Laurent. We had the opportunity to work with modest-sized purveyors because we were working in a different context. All of a sudden, these smaller sources were not only willing to sell to Joe Beef, they were also coming to the restaurant to eat and visit! \u003cbr\u003e \u003cbr\u003eWe have never experimented with the concept of the food at Joe Beef. It has evolved in some ways, of course, but the food has always been the food we wanted to do since day one. We serve true Bocusian-Lyonnaise \u003ci\u003ecuisine du marché\u003c\/i\u003e(French market cuisine), which enables us to roll with the market in a way that wouldn’t be possible with a printed menu. Although some complained that our food “lacks presentation” or is “too simplistic,” we started getting good reviews and earning acclaim soon after opening. Chefs from every corner of the United States started showing up at our door.\u003cbr\u003e \u003cbr\u003eOne night, Fred noticed a ragged-looking Korean American guy ordering everything on the menu. Lo and behold, it was David Chang, owner of New York’s Momofuku. This was right before David was ordered to rest by his doctor. He had boarded a plane for Montreal, landed at Trudeau International Airport, and was at the Joe Beef bar a couple of nights later. The week was, of course, a complete haze of food, wine, and long nights, and David has been a good friend and Joe Beef supporter ever since. The props he gave us were a game changer for us, and now we seem to be part of the North American Food Itinerary. We’re baffled and utterly appreciative. But more important, we are truly happy coming to work every day. \u003cbr\u003e \u003cbr\u003e \u003cbr\u003e \u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003e\u003ci\u003eFoie Gras Parfait with Madeira Jelly\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e \u003cbr\u003e\u003ci\u003eMakes 10 to 12 ramekins \u003c\/i\u003e\u003cbr\u003e \u003cbr\u003eThis dish, which calls for a whole fresh duck foie gras, has been on our menu since day one. We like it with a thin layer of our Madeira Jelly poured on top, but almost any compote, jam, or jelly can be served alongside.\u003cbr\u003e \u003cbr\u003e1 whole fresh duck foie gras, about 18 ounces (500 g) \u003cbr\u003e4 cups (1 liter) milk \u003cbr\u003e1½ cups (375 ml) whipping cream (35 percent butterfat) \u003cbr\u003e1 tablespoon brandy\u003cbr\u003e1 teaspoon sugar\u003cbr\u003eSalt and pepper\u003cbr\u003e6 egg yolks\u003cbr\u003e2 whole eggs \u003cbr\u003eBoiling water, as needed\u003cbr\u003eBlack truffle shavings for topping (optional)\u003cbr\u003eMadeira Jelly (recipe follows) \u003cbr\u003eToasted brioche or \u003ci\u003epain de campagne\u003c\/i\u003e (country bread) for serving\u003cbr\u003e \u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003e1.\u003c\/b\u003e Place the liver in a large bowl, and pour the milk over it. 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